Howdy folks! It has been awhile since I’ve blogged any new projects and my inspirations for them. SOoooo… I figured I would start back up again…
Every year, my boyfriend has Easter with his mother, sister and his mother’s side of the family. At the very least, it is business casual attire. Last year everything happened so quickly that I ordered a dress from Amazon that was entirely too big on me. It felt incredibly weird because I like to dress appropriately but without having attended a big family gathering like this before for Easter in a non-church environment; was probably not “dressed to impress”.
At the beginning of the year, researching the new Pantone 2019 Color of the Year in the hopes of creating something for this special occasion, I decide I would start small (in my eyes) and do a simple blouse/pant combo. I knew that Living Coral would be one of the tones I wanted to achieve and instead of making it my solid, I just figured a print with the different shade would suffice (trying to keep it simple remember?). I came across this wonderful fabric meeting my needs from LA Finch Fabrics.
Florals are real big right now. Everyone I know has been receiving muumuu robes with huge floral prints from their mail subscriptions. I know that I’ve had a lot of requests wanting more floral outfits. OF COURSE…I HAD TO OBLIGE!
Hands down, Simplicity’s S8885 was an easy choice. I miss my JNCO jeans from my teen years with the enormous pockets. The pattern had several different variations of styling the pants for wide legs.
I really wasn’t sure how wide the legs were going to be until I started cutting out the pattern. I wonder quite often if I needed to hem more than what was stated so they wouldn’t become ratty after several wears from walking but the amount given to hem really surprised me. This fabric was fairly easy to match up pattern wise. Not very many pieces to cut out and sew. I love the side zipper being invisible. I added a hook and eye just to be on the safe side.
I was pretty happy with the finished product. I 100% recommend using this pattern to achieve the wide-leg look or if you’re simply learning how to sew. It will definitely suffice. I also love the Boho Chic look it gave the fabric I was working with. The inseam does tend to ride high just a bit but nothing that wasn’t easily worked out with adjustments to the seam allowances. I was pretty sad when we ended up not being able to go to the Easter function due to my boyfriend traveling back for work. However I do love to wear them with a white, cotton tee or even a softer fabric like crepe or silk. It will be a versatile piece as time goes on.
Stay tuned… for my first PDF pattern I have used ever!
First off, I want to state that it was an ABSOLUTE pleasure working with Maddy on her cosplay. I am very familiar with Fallout 4 but also the many different designs of the actual Vault 101 uniform that is out on the market. My goal essentially was to give Maddy something that was her own (of course being authentic to the nature of the uniform as much as possible) but also something that did not look cheap or bought from your every day Halloween store.
So now I am sure you’re wonder how you can do it too, right? Well, let me tell you below:
I decided to go with View A of Simplicity pattern #8722. It is essentially made for velcro enclosure and not a zipper. HOWEVER…it was NOT an issue to do a zipper versus velcro. I didn’t add the knee pad pockets because Maddy is short to average height and didn’t want her to be bogged down with too many accessories in case we went for a more feminine approach and less masculine shaping as shown on the front of the pattern. If you are going for a more feminine outline of your body versus masculine, I suggest doing about 1-2 sizes bigger based on waist and hips so you can tailor it in to the shape that you want. I believe it took us about 30 minutes after everything was completely sewn for me to pin it around Maddy to find her desired shape. Now for the trimming I used two different sized Wright’s Bias Trim in the color mustard.
Unfolding the double fold once then pressing with a hot iron was the way for me to go one getting the desire hip line and desired attention to break up the blue and define Maddy’s waist. At first when I was using the smaller trim around the neck and down the front unfolded the same, it became overwhelmingly yellow and less representative of the uniform. We decided to keep only the collar thin and then unfold from bust down to hips. Any trim would probably work but for the purpose of this how-to blog I wanted to offer lower priced options for those wanting to make this costume themselves.
Ironically, the costume looked Navy with my iPhone camera while tracking progress. LOL this is why you should always invest in a professional camera folks! Lesson Learned! As for the fabric, I ordered a Royal, Poly/Cotton Twill from Fabric.com for fairly reasonable price. When working in cosplay you need to be able to breathe, you need to be able to wick sweat away due to hot lights (especially if you’re performing) so it was important to find a fabric that looked like a denim/canvas type without necessarily having the weight or feel of wearing denim/canvas.
Most of the costume was 3/8 seam allowances except during the tailoring portion of giving her a more feminine shape. Due to her thin frame at the waist, I may have taken it in about 2-3 inches. Your marking tools will be your friend when it comes to aligning the trims to go around the hip area evenly to match with the back. During the fitting process, it was much easier to encase the seams and give it a gorgeous french seam down the side.
For the 101, I had a friend find the 101 image so I could print off the monotype used as a tracing template. We traced the 101 onto Yellow Fat Quarter and used HeatnBond Lite to give it an adhesive backing to create an iron on. Teflon was place over the numbers so it would not melt or bleed the blue through the numbers. This was also done on the collar for the 101 however you cannot see it because she wanted to wing out the collar.
For the jacket, Maddy had found her jacket and I believe the original boots she was going to wear at a thrift store (could be wrong). The patch was literally sold out everywhere. When Maddy first commissioned me months ago, I couldn’t find it in stock then as closer to time coming up for the Comic Con; realized I would have to find another solution. So since it is pleather, I wasn’t quite sure if the same method for the numbers would hold up. I went to Joanns and purchased in the sewing notions (not the quilting notions section) heat n bond for Leather, Suede and other like fabrics. I explained to Maddy’s mom how to do it as she was assisting Maddy with the jacket.
Same process as above however, using a white fat quarter, an actual iron-on with snake printed on it. You transfer the iron-on to the white fat quarter and then proceed like you would the numbers… again Teflon sheeting is your bff! It can easily be found on Amazon. I do recommend that all trims be applied after the zipper but before sewing altogether. For the collar, I used Shiri-tailor interfacing so it would bend but also give it a stiff touch in case she wanted to wear it standing straight up. The collar trim was applied after the collar was attached because I wanted it to be seen in its entirety but also line up perfectly with the sewn seam. You can do it however you prefer.
I am looking forward to many more cosplays with our lovely model Maddy. She is an absolute beauty inside and out. Her father, Steve, gets credit for accessories and is quite knowledgeable in that area of building things from scratch.
I also have to thank a very good friend of mine, Beverly who brought me back to reality a few times during the process just because I am pretty OCD about authenticity when it comes to cosplays. Also for the time she took to assist me whenever needed.
If you end up doing this cosplay, I would love to see it! be sure to tag me in all social medias whether its IG, Facebook, Twitter, Reddit at @RRYBDesigns I would love to assist or answer any questions you may have!